Wedge Mountain

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Wedge Mountain
Elevation 2,892 metres (9,488 ft)
Location British Columbia, Canada
Range Garibaldi Ranges
Prominence 2,249 metres (7,379 ft)
Coordinates 50°07′59″N 122°47′36″W / 50.13306, -122.79333Coordinates: 50°07′59″N 122°47′36″W / 50.13306, -122.79333
Topo map NTS 92J/02
First ascent 1923 N. Carter; C. Townsend
Easiest route 3rd class snow climb with Glacier travel

Wedge Mountain is the highest summit in Garibaldi Provincial Park, and is visible from the Whistler Mountain Ski Area. It is named for its distinctive wedge shape. A long, steep climb leads to a ranger cabin at Wedge Lake. It's an approximately four and a half hour hike without heavy gear, though the path is very distinct. Across the lake from the cabin is the glacier, and above that the summit. The summit is approximately 9500 feet from sea level, and the cabin, located at the North end of the lake, is at approximately 6300 feet. There are multiple ways of approaching the summit. The more direct way is a knife-edge ridge called the North Arrete, which leads more or less directly to the summit. It would require equipment such as cramp-ons and ice axes because it is covered with snow all year round. Another route that can be taken without such tools is the South face. This part can be seen from the valley, appearing to be a steep rock-covered slope... which it is. To approach the South face you must climb over the glacier to the West Couloir, across the bottom of it and up to the left. From there it's straight shooting, but for the rocks that are seemingly happy to succumb to gravity's wishes. Most of Wedge is in the Provincial Park, so helicopters are not allowed to drop people off there. It's a grueling climb, though very worth if proper preparations are made.

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